In the realm of winemaking, it’s a rare occurrence to encounter an individual whose journey takes unexpected detours from the established path, especially in a part of the world where less than one percent of wineries are owned by black individuals. Chris Wachira, the visionary behind Wachira Wines, a California-based winery, embodies a remarkable and unconventional story that defies convention.
Hailing from Kenya, Chris embarked on her American odyssey in the 1990s armed with a mere $500 (approximately Ksh60,000) and an unyielding determination. Her initial foray into the American dream began with the pursuit of a nursing degree, signaling the start of an extraordinary journey.
Today, Chris Wachira’s story reverberates with themes of triumph, courage, and unwavering determination, symbolizing the epitome of success against all odds. Her academic journey led her to a Master’s in public policy and eventually a doctorate, and her career trajectory took an unexpected turn.
In 2017, Chris initiated her venture into the world of winemaking by founding Wachira Wines in East Bay, California, marking the establishment of the first Kenyan-American winery in the United States. Her journey into winemaking was serendipitous but emblematic of her resilience and her pursuit of a new direction in her professional life.
Venturing into winemaking in California is a formidable endeavor, laden with daunting challenges, substantial financial investments, and skepticism from industry insiders. However, five years into her venture, Chris Wachira now finds herself basking in the success of her labor. Her company produces six distinct “Californian wine brands with a Kenyan accent,” featuring cabernets, zinfandels, Muscat, and Chardonnay, which are savored not only in the United States but also in Japan and Canada.
But what motivated a nurse to enter the world of winemaking? Her motivation was deeply personal and profound. “My drive was as simple and as selfish as wanting to create a wine that would complement my mother’s dishes. I could not find a wine that would pair well with the Kenyan dishes she prepared,” Chris Wachira explains.
Chris’s journey in winemaking is fueled by her desire to fill a void in the wine industry and her mission to champion the representation of black people, especially women, in the winemaking sector. Despite societal expectations regarding her academic pursuits, Wachira believes in showcasing winemaking as a viable and meaningful profession, a message she aims to convey to young people.
Given Kenya’s lack of traditional association with winemaking, it’s only natural to wonder about people’s reactions when she talks about wine. Most often, people express curiosity and intrigue. She elaborates, “People ask me: do you really make that wine? When I teach them how to pair it, they get pleasantly surprised.”
One might also wonder why she chose to name her winery “Wachira.” She explains, “The Robert Mondavi family in California calls their wine Mondavi. The Kendall Jacksons call theirs Jacksons. I named mine Wachira because it represents who I am.”
Establishing a winery in a foreign country, especially as a black woman, is no simple task, as the wine industry has long been dominated by white males. Chris Wachira’s journey began with networking, attending wine tastings, and building relationships within the industry. During these interactions, she met Chadwick Spell, who now serves as the Chief Operating Officer of Wachira Wines. The company started with just five members—Wachira, Spell, Spell’s brother, and Wachira’s two brothers. Today, their team has expanded to approximately 20 members.
Sourcing grapes is a critical aspect of winemaking, and Chris shares that she has multi-year contracts with farmers in Napa, Lodi, and Paso Robles regions in California, ensuring a consistent supply of high-quality grapes. Each of the wines they craft features grapes from two of these regions, resulting in a diverse and unique flavor profile.
When it comes to owning a vineyard, Wachira prefers to leave this aspect to her partners due to the challenges posed by global warming and climate change, allowing her to focus on perfecting her winemaking and brand.
Marketing a winery is a challenging endeavor, especially for a newcomer in the industry. Initially, the company’s focus was on festivals and social events, such as parties, and getting their products on store shelves was a formidable task. “Major distributors did not think I was large enough to support,” recalls Wachira. However, when she met Spell, they founded their distribution company, Soko, which has evolved into a platform supporting minority-owned brands and small, locally-crafted wine brands.
Beyond distribution, Wachira Wines has expanded its reach to corporate events and even opened “Karibu,” a tasting room in East Bay, California, providing unique wine experiences.
The timeless appeal of wine is rooted in its ability to be enjoyed both in moments of joy and sorrow, a fact that was exemplified during the ongoing global pandemic. Wachira reflects, “People drink before the pandemic and during the pandemic. They will also drink after the pandemic. People drink both when they are happy and when they are sad.”
Wachira acknowledges the cultural shift that has occurred in recent years, particularly driven by the Black social awareness movement since 2020. This shift has significantly impacted her brand’s growth. She shares, “There has been intentionality among people in looking for specifically black-owned businesses. When this movement started, we were able to pivot and target this opportunity since we were already positioned.”
Beyond her entrepreneurial journey, Wachira is dedicated to addressing the exclusivity long associated with the world of wine. Out of approximately 11,000 wineries in the United States, fewer than one percent are owned by Black individuals, and even fewer by Black women. She seeks to create an environment where people can learn about wine without judgment or fear of ignorance, emphasizing the importance of inclusivity in the industry.
While selling her wines around the world has been relatively smooth, especially in Japan, Wachira is motivated by her desire to connect with her motherland, Kenya. She recognizes the growing curiosity among Kenyans to explore and understand the world of wine. Wachira believes that her Kenyan roots have always been part of her journey and aims to maintain that connection.
Like many minority-owned wineries, Wachira has faced her share of challenges, with financing being a major hurdle. The capital-intensive nature of the wine business, involving the purchase of grapes, machinery, and storage facilities, has necessitated self-funding. Few lenders are willing to invest in the wine business, despite its growth potential. However, the challenges have not deterred Wachira. She continues to passionately advocate for her brand, and the results are evident. Wachira Wines has gained recognition in various wine competitions in the United States and has developed a loyal customer base. Wachira attributes this success to her commitment to authenticity and her Kenyan heritage.
One of the most significant lessons she has learned in her five years in the industry is the importance of branding. She emphasizes, “People connect visually before they taste it. If I do not like what I see, I won’t pick it up to taste it.” Having a compelling story behind the brand is equally crucial. “This makes it personable and relatable to people.
